Jerry practicing jumps

Muscle memory is memory programmed into the conscious and subconscious by using the same repetitive motor skill. For example, a tennis player may practice 400 repetitions of their swing at a slow pace. Over time, the body will produce the same swing, faster and without conscious thought or effort. Later in time, the tennis player will apply that swing in a split second during a game.
In the world of dog training this can be incredibly important. Many of us have seen the dog that drops into a down from a full speed run, or sits quickly and efficiently on command. While part of this is attributed to motivation, distractions and other variables, it also depends greatly on muscle memory. The dog’s body and mind must learn and memorize the activation of certain muscles at certain times.
When using markers or a clicker, we don’t name the command until after we have established a solid motion. By luring the dog into position a few hundred times, the body and mind can memorize this position and accomplish it faster, and with less conscious thought. The more muscle memory established prior to naming the command (conditioning a cue) the more crisp a command, and the faster its execution. This is how a sloppy down, crooked sit, or curved out heel can be fixed. However, if we are to fix a position associated with a command, it is best to name it as a new command. The reason is that the old cue is conditioned to the old motion. If I teach you that “goppalsnoch” (not a real word) means dance and then reinforce it on a daily basis, then I tell you that “goppalsnoch” means dance, but with your hands locked behind your back, it is likely that you will through muscle memory and conditioning, respond to the cue with whatever you originally did, and will have to catch yourself to fix it so your hands are locked behind your back.
So how does this affect your dog’s learning? If you want crisp, tight positioning in commands, practice the motion with great amounts of repetition. Think of it as the same kind of practice and repetition you would put into perfecting your swing in golf or tennis, your shot or dribble in basketball, your pass in football, or your cast in fly fishing. Only by repetition do you get it right, and reduce the conscious effort that goes into your end product.

As a groomer, I encounter many different personalities of dogs. Some are excited to have a spa day and others are nervous with their owners standing by and usually relax as the owner leaves and gives encouraging words of comfort. Some are just down right terrified and need more coaxing and reassurance. I always try to read the dog as they enter the door and make sure they are comfortable. Dogs that are not groomed starting as puppies have a much bigger hurdle to overcome. The grooming room can be scary and unfamiliar. The big tubs, loud dryers, and a strange person trying to brush them, pick at their ears and trim their nails can be sensory overload for a dog that has never been introduced to these things. When deciding to have your dog groomed take into consideration the age your dog first started grooming, do they like to be brushed, and how are they when someone is close to their face or bottom. If the dog has never been groomed, understand that the grooming process may take longer and all services may not be able to be completed. As a professional groomer it is my responsibility to keep your dog safe and maintain a positive grooming experience as eventually these hurdles will become less and less of a problem. Most dogs will develop a love for a good scrubbing and brushing. Some will always require a little more time and soft spoken words to get them through the process. I like to keep the owner informed of behavior issues and if their dog requires extra time. If you find that your dog is one that requires some of these extra little steps make sure to inform your groomer that these could be an issue. Most groomers will appreciate the information and can be sure to make a positive experience for your pet and you.

Anyone see this problem coming?

1. Supervision in the Yard

In today’s society, zoning ordinances have reduced how common privacy fences are. Many of those reading this may be affected by ordinances that do not allow such fences to be built in their neighborhood. Chain link fences may be next in line as a “second best” option, but don’t fully protect our dogs from the outside world. The last, but “better than nothing” option is the invisible fence. While it contains our dog, it provides them little shelter from the outside world. At first, we think if our dog is contained it is safe. This is hardly the case. These fences don’t protect our dogs from perhaps the cruelest of creatures, neighbors and neighborhood children. We have all seen the young child that antagonizes the contained dog. Some will throw stuff, like sticks and rocks, especially if the dog gets aroused or excited and barks and charges up to the fence. Over time, a dog in this situation learns to fear these children. But for some reason, we blame the dog when it bites a child. Eventually, the dog learns that acting aggressive will often get them to leave it alone. Now we have a serious problem. Aggression towards children is never taken lightly, and the dog is who pays dearly for this, despite that it was the victim. Who is to blame, the parents, the children, the dog for being a dog, or the owners of the dog, that thought a fence, of some sort, was sufficient as a baby sitter? Children will be children. Dogs will be dogs. Owners however, can take responsibility for the life they have taken willingly under their wing as conscientious adults.
Children are not the only culprits building fear in our yards. This can also be stray, wondering, or uncontained dogs. Physical fences keep out dogs, but if near sidewalks or walking areas can still allow other dogs to antagonize them as they pass. Even if you have done your prevention through socialization, it only takes one traumatic experience to change a dog’s perception. Worse yet, invisible fences don’t keep them out. Wandering dogs can get into the yard and hurt, antagonize, or kill our dog. They might be perfectly friendly, playing with our dog, but when that dog runs through the line, our dog is supplied with a shock as they follow in play. That’s one more component for fear. Suddenly, our dog associates this unpleasant feeling to the other dog. Maybe they were just following the joggers and their dog along the fence line, but that sound means shock, or worse, they get past the warning line. Now we have a dog that is afraid of joggers, dogs, children, etc…and needs a way of relieving the pressure it must endure on a daily basis. This is where aggression seems like their only option.
These problems can often and most easily be avoided by good boundary training and great socialization during early periods, but do not assume that they will free you from facing this problem. The best solution is that no dog should be left unprotected in the yard. By simply being outside with your dog when in the yard, you can help your dog learn to react properly to these common issues, and add an element of protection to intercept unforeseen dangers. Most cruelty from children does not happen in the presence of adults, and most dogs can be run off from the yard (if your neighbor doesn’t like this approach, they need to understand that they’re breaking the law by allowing their dog to roam into your yard, and are endangering both dogs.)

Think that she can stop the dog?

2. Intercepting Strange Dogs In Public (The “Oh, he’s friendly” people)

The next most common problem typically is what I call the “extendable leash” fanatics, or the “ It’s OKAY, he’s friendly” people. These people are truly innocent in their intentions, but can be some of the most dangerous people when it comes to causing aggression. Let me provide a brief description of this situation: A person with a dog that is pulling, or 16-20 ft (the length of an expandable leash) from the owner. Rarely, in this situation, can this owner stop their dog from getting to yours. What they don’t realize is that your dog may be shy, and that sudden confrontation will force your dog into a reactive state (snapping, growling, etc…) The more this happens, the more the reaction will be reinforced, and the more intense the reaction becomes. In some cases, these dogs are everything but friendly, but once again, the owner will not be able to stop them given the distance, leverage, and strength. Most of the public is not educated in dog behavior or body language, and will not see the subtle warning signs. This puts our dogs and us in a bad situation. If your dog reacts, despite who is to blame, it is you who is liable. I suggest intercepting these dogs, or trying to ward them off if they are unfamiliar, or if you are concerned on how your dog will react. Your dog will learn to trust you and your ability to defend it, feeling less like it must defend itself. In many places with leash laws, the retractable leash is not considered a leash, or reasonable control. If you are finding yourself repeatedly being faced with this by someone you may see on a regular basis, it may be wise to check your local laws. They may in fact be breaking the law, which gives you a possible course of action, if you cannot just change where you walk your dog.

Even the little guys can cause serious injury

3. Children And Dogs

Children and dogs can be one of the hardest subjects to face as a trainer. There are many dogs that are what we might call “Childproof.” These are dogs that tolerate just about anything from children. Most these dogs were exposed to children at early ages. However, no dog is truly childproof. Dogs, like us, get tired or irritated. They need places to retreat from the constant onslaught of stress some children can cause them. Dogs also communicate quite well, with other dogs, but children and adults alike often don’t understand their communication. So often, I’ve heard a dog growl and someone say, “that dog’s aggressive.” However, growling is usually an attempt to avoid escalation to even worse reactions and greater stress. This means that as adults, we need to put some basic rules in place to prevent problems in the future. I suggest that no child under the ages of 10 be left unsupervised with dogs. There may be exceptions to this based upon the dog’s tolerance of children’s behaviors, and maturity of the child. It is important that we also give a dog a place to retreat to safety that is off limits to a child (Dog’s need to unwind at times too.) It should be the adult’s job, to learn of, look for, and identify moments the dog is showing stress. If the dog is trying to escape, growling, constantly licking its lips, rolling over, avoiding eye contact, etc….these are ways the dog is trying to say, “Leave me be.” Our children are often not looking for these messages, and may not understand how important it is that they do give the dog space. If the dog is sending these messages, and no one is protecting the dog from the continuation of a stress building, it is likely that they will respond more dramatically. This is where the big problem lies. Dogs correct each other physically, as a normal part of communication. They may snap, or “bite.” Dog’s unfortunately, have tougher skin than children. What may have been meant as a warning or correction can seriously injure a child. Does that make it an aggressive dog? While dogs biting children is never to be taken lightly, we can reduce the chance we have to deal with this problem by supervising.

In case anyone was wondering, this dog is showing warning signs...

4. ABOVE ALL ELSE

There are many other common situations and scenarios that can be problematic similar to these I have outlined. Remember, part of your dog looking to you for leadership, is looking to you for protection. Don’t let your best furry friend become the victim of these vicious cycles of fear and aggression. Many may tell you that they have never followed this advice and never had a problem. The reality is that these cases are all too common, and most owners do not see it happening until it already is taking effect. Often, in these cases, it is too late, and someone is already facing consequences that cannot be undone.

For some of you, you’ve been in an experience where a good muzzle is a must. Whether it be necessary for vet visits, behavior modification, or other applications, Jafco is the most affordable quality muzzle you can buy.

Nylon muzzles with the opening at the tip restrict air flow and breathing, do not allow the dog to exhaust heat, and while low cost are truly not a dependable.

Nylon Muzzle

Jafco muzzles are basket muzzles that allow dogs to be able to eat, get treats, and drink. Because of the open design, it allows the dog to open its mouth inside, allowing heat to leave the body. This is especially important when our dogs are stressed or exasperated. Restricting their ability to expel heat from their body can cause a number of health concerns and problems. They are comfortable, lightweight, affordable and tough. Jafco muzzles have been used for pet care, veterinary care, and police canine muzzle attack training. A similar concept of k9 basket muzzle may cost anywhere from $70 to $120 dollars depending on the quality, material and manufacturer. For the cost, you cannot find a better investment when it comes to muzzles.

Kennel Club is pleased to announce we now have Jafco muzzles in stock. We have a variety of sizes from typical shapes, to rottweiler and pitbull fits. The rottweiler and pitbull muzzles have a third strap to keep it from being pulled off.

by Camilla Gray-Nelson (The Dog Talk Diva) on May 22, 2011

The plethora of doggie daycare centers around the country in the last few years is nothing short of mind-boggling. But with the popularity of daycare services for dogs, there comes an unrealistic expectation –that all dogs can and should be social with others – they’re “social animals”, after all. The truth, however, is not nearly as simple or clear-cut, and many dog owners are finding themselves disillusioned and confused when their dogs fail to make the grade in daycare.

Many dog parents believe that if their dog is not good around other dogs, this can be overcome by more social exposure, so they sign up for doggie daycare. Or when they get a new puppy, a super-responsible owner will get their pup enrolled in a puppy play and doggie daycare program, believing that this early and ongoing socialization will “guarantee” their puppy’s future social skills. Oh, that it were so simple! Here is Nature’s perspective on the tricky subject of dogs and social interactions. If your canine child has had trouble integrating into a dog park or daycare situation, read on.

Dogs are wired by Mother Nature to live in packs. But what is a pack, exactly? It’s an extended family of dogs, all related and familiar to one another – parents, grandparents, brothers, sisters, aunts, uncles and cousins. Day in and day out, the same dogs are in this big family. Puppies are born each season into the family pack. Puppies grow and develop through infancy, adolescence and finally into their serious adult character, whatever Nature has genetically coded for them. Once an adult, a dog’s duty is to help defend the pack. Woe to the new dog that wanders into a family territory, the adult pack members rising up and driving off the intruder. They do not welcome him in and offer him a seat at the dinner table.

But newcomers are the norm in doggie daycare and dog parks. Every few minutes, a new dog is arriving. The daycare or dog park “pack” is made up of different dogs everyday, with little to no familiarity with each other. They quickly sort out their organizational structure and then must decide to accept or reject each newcomer. Each newcomer, turn, is faced with the uncertainty of whether or not they will be accepted by the group. When the group is made up of young, carefree pre-adults, there’s usually little problem. Kids like everybody! With an older demographic, however, harmony between the dogs can become more elusive. After all, it was the job of their ancestors to drive off newcomers, not accept them!

The most difficult situation I encounter, as a daycare operator is when a wonderful client brings their young dog to daycare and all starts out well, but over time the dog becomes less and less social until they are no longer appropriate in a social daycare setting. Failing to understand this behavioral change as a result of maturation, the client, understandably, tends to think their dog is being singled out unfairly or unjustly. They are upset and confused. Everything had been fine before. In reality, however, things have changed as the result of the inevitable passage of time and the genetic code that predestined their dog’s adult personality from the get-go.

Does this mean that adult dogs cannot be successful in daycare? Not at all! Many breeds have been so domesticated and dialed-down as to smooth out the sharp edges of their original adult canine ancestors, making them, in essence, perpetual puppies. Labs, Goldens and similar breeds come to mind. No wonder they do so well in daycare! Other breeds, however, were bred to remain sharp and discerning, as there was need for this character in the job for which they were developed. German Shepherds and other serious working dogs are good examples of this. These breeds can find today’s daycare settings very challenging, especially as they mature. Many of these dogs would rather have their own room than run with the Great Unwashed (!)

So if your canine child is a daycare drop-out, do not fret. It just means he’s very smart and very grown-up. He gets an “A” in Canine. Your children will be what they will be, after all. So you may not have the doctor you were hoping for…success and happiness come in all forms. Love your dog for the dog he is, and give him the life that makes him happiest. For some dogs, that’s peace and quiet – not daycare.

Diva
(Camilla Gray-Nelson is the President and Director of Training At Dairydell Canine in Sonoma County California.)

We are proud to announce that Chad Mackin will be doing a seminar/workshop called Pack to the Basics Aug 27th and 28th. Pack to the Basics is designed to help dogs that suffer from anxiety, shyness, aggression, and fear when interacting with other dogs. It will include hands-on exercises to help dogs overcome these issues, as well as lectures covering body language, knowing when to intervene and when not to, and causes for aggression in dogs. If you struggle with your dog on these kind of behaviors, this is a great opportunity to make serious progress. It will be a two day event from 9 AM to 4 PM. We look forward to seeing you there. If you have questions or would like to find out how to register, give us a call at (740) 967-8050, or ask Jon when in.

Daycamp Fun

We will be posting Training Videos on our channel on YouTube and on our Facebook page. They will vary from demonstrations of training to helpful tidbits. If you haven’t joined us on Facebook, we encourage you do so. We also post pictures, recognize birthdays, display seminars,and upload videos of the dogs playing in daycamp. You can also join us on Twitter. We alert customers to road closings, accidents, and other travel concerns. We hope that these services only help to serve you better.